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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.