Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
